Revealed: The Secrets That Will Let You Find Some Peace In Greece
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Tucked away near the bottom of the peninsula is Citta dei Nicliani, a rustic but chic hotel in a restored 18th Century tower, with just seven rooms plus two new interconnecting suites in a separate building.
Among the Ionian islands, cost of taxi in Trikeri greece Kefalonia may have become busier since its 2001 starring role in the film of Captain Corelli's Mandolin, but there are still quiet corners, including the small peninsula of Cape Liakas, which doesn't attract day visitors thanks to its no-through-road and a rocky beach rather than a stretch of sand.
Hire a boat to see the best bits, pottering around the coast to stop at Galazio beach, which is accessible only by water, and to marvel at the natural rock arch of Kamara. Better still, head over for lunch at one of the tavernas on Paxos's smaller, vine-covered neighbour, Antipaxos.
A network of footpaths weaves among the lemon and minibus taxi Trikeri olive trees - it's a mile-and-a-half hike to the village of Spartia. There are sunloungers and shade at the rocky shore, or it's a five-minute drive to a sandy beach. Here, a group of 19 individually owned and decorated villas are available for hire, each with sea views.
You can also hire a catamaran complete with skipper and chef to sail round the less-well-known Cyclades. Tick off Serifos and Sifnos, Naxos and Paros as well as the wild, mountainous island of Kythnos.
Villa company Scott Williams has many properties on Paxos, including the simple stone Koulka House, with a pool, sleeping four in the hamlet of Kastanida on the west coast. A week in Koulka House costs from £830, transportation in greece Trikeri excluding flights (Lunar landscapes - and island-hopping in style
The local goat's milk, olive oil, organic vegetables and red wine must help, as well as the beautiful setting of sandy beaches and lush hillsides. Just don't make too many journeys on the tortuous roads in the mountainous interior, which might make you feel you've shaved years off your life.
In the protected wetlands of Ahla Valley, this collection of 14 cottages lies between a white-sand beach on a secluded bay and a rockpool fed by a waterfall. Built from stone, wood and river reeds, with white and earthy interiors, the cottages make the perfect base to get away from it all. For a similar eco-village in the wilderness feel, try Onar on Andros, just a couple of hours by ferry from Athens.
Seven nights' B&B costs from £978pp with flights and Trikeri airport to city taxi cost transfers (It may be one of Greece's most popular holiday destinations but Crete still has some off-the-beaten-track areas. With plenty of wood and stone, the stylish cottages - some contemporary, others more traditional - share a pool surrounded by rocks, and minibus taxi Trikeri a restaurant on the site of an old monastery that uses produce from Thalori's own farm. A walking trail through the pine forest starts here, linking four villages and spanning 15 miles. Stay in the Erofili Hotel by the fishing village of Armenistis, and take a dip in the seawater pool or in the sea at nearby Livadi Beach. In the remote, rugged landscape of the Asterousia Mountains in the south, a collection of 20 cottages form Thalori Retreat, which takes its name from its position between the sea (thalassa) and mountain (ori).
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Enjoy a massage using herbs grown on the estate, practise yoga in the pavilion, or walk to the nearby beach. A villa for two costs from £2,200 a week, taxi from Katigiorgis to delphi or £2,500 for four, with car hire but excluding flights (oneoffplaces.co.uk). On a hillside with sea views, the villas are set within their own gardens and share a pool, open-air cinema and a large library.
Inntravel has a ten-night walking trip in September starting in Athens, including B&B but not flights, from £1,095pp (inntravel.co.uk). On volcanic Milos, Katigiorgis transport explore the lunar landscape and soft sandy beaches along a shoreline that also features sea caves.
A week's B&B costs from £1,255pp with flights and transfers (Also in the Cyclades, The Rooster has just opened on the under-the-radar island of Antiparos, offering a luxuriously contemporary take on an authentic Greek hotel. With 17 beautifully designed suites, villas and houses, it is an ideal place to relax, with plenty of privacy and space. At night, dine on organic fresh produce from the vegetable garden. Take a boat trip from the beach to explore the coast, which is scalloped by more than 70 beaches, or head inland on one of the networks of old shepherds' footpaths to explore this lush island which feels a touch more Scottish Highlands than Cyclades.
