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The beaches of Agios Ioannis are beautifully clear, fronted by a succession of tavernas.
Chris, desperate to check the financial markets (his mobile phone is a constant feature on our walks), is delighted by the hotel wi-fi, while I provide a bit of visual contrast on the beach — a pallid interloper surrounded by bronzed Greeks. But there are compensations later.

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By this stage my blisters are less of a problem than the fact that my knees no longer seem to be functioning. Blaming my inadequate footwear rather than lack of fitness, I struggle on — and soon the prospect of a lunch of Pelion sausage in peppers and aubergine and a Mythos beer has lubricated my joints.

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Narnia is the theme of our first stop: the village of Chania, near the top of Mount Pelion. The forest, descending from the terrace of the Hotel Manthos, spreads out like a green carpet to the sea, while swallows patrol the sky above.



You may not be a tree person but I defy you not to be impressed by the giant plane tree in front of the church in Agia Paraskevi.
It is more than a thousand cost of taxi in Trikeri greece years old and about 58 ft in circumference, the sort of natural wonder that lends credence to the legend that Pelion was favoured by the gods.

The travel company Macs Adventure has arranged our trip (yes, I really did just type ‘adventure holidays' into a search engine), which includes transferring our luggage between hotels and providing us with route notes for each day's walk.

I was certain before we set out that a well-worn pair of Converse trainers would suffice as footwear, but am horrified to discover that they offer neither enough grip nor support. After only one day of walking, my legs are covered in cuts and grazes.

Despite the latter, a fatal combination of overconfidence (I am seized by the delusion that I am a born explorer) and poor map-reading causes us to set off in the opposite direction to that in which we should be heading.

This early 19th-century building is full of telescopes, books and prints, while outside you can take tea or rafina to Katigiorgis airport taxi cost drinks in the hotel's own treehouse. In between these two, poor reading of the directions (again) causes us to accidentally climb a hill that must surely be known locally as the Greek Matterhorn. Our night is spent in the wonderfully quirky Lost Unicorn Hotel in Tsagarada.